Day 20...
Up early...and it’s trying to rain! Typical. We head off anyway as we need to get moving.
Today we are going to get as far south as we possibly can, through as many locks as possible, to make up time.
We wave to a couple of the other boats as we leave Moret Sur Loing (some of whom are still tucked up in bed!).
First small lock and and all okay. We are given a little “zapper” which, as we approach the lock, activates it - great! Move on to the next lock...as we approach - zap! the light acknowledges us and soon we have a green light to enter! Awesome! This lock has quite a surge of water, which catches us out slightly. By using the bow thruster, Chilaxin is back straight and behaving.
We had planned to get to Souppes-Sur-Loing for our night stop but, as we start going through the locks quite quickly, we feel that we will get there too soon and waste more time. We had not realised that these zappers (which cover the whole Canal du Loing and are quite new) would save so much time!
We re-plan and think that we can get to Montargis, at the tip of the Canal de Briare. We move on, lock after lock, never seeing another boat - just lovely views and beautiful properties along the river banks! Before we know it, we've arrived at Montargis, the Venice of the Gatinais.
We have completed 23 locks and 52km! We find a space at the Port de Plaisance. Just as we start looking around to find out where to check in, a van pulls up, we are given the okay and off they drive! Brilliant!
Once settled, we head into town to see what is on offer. We see a bar - music is playing, lots of ladies are stood outside and it looks like Salsa classes. I would like to add, at this point, we have not had a shower and 23 locks in full heat has not helped me look attractive at all! I decline to go in, even though Kev was half way down the steps (not sure he realised how smelly we were!).
We head on a bit further and find a nice quiet bar with seating outside. 2 beers ordered, free peanuts and nibbles and the hint of wifi...I’m not moving!
The wifi is slower than dialup! Another round of beers and its time to head back to the boat for a shower and bed.
We have completed the Canal du Loing in a single day! What an achievement!
Tomorrow we are heading to Chatillon-Coligny (half way down the Canal de Briare) which is recommended in every book - and has free moorings! (You just pay for the showers and electric).
Day 21...
A rude awakening, after a very humid night, by the capitinaire banging on the boat just before 7am! The shock on his face when he saw me was comical - my hair on end, in a small dressing gown, one eye open, the other glued shut with hay fever gunk (attractive right? ha!). €10 for the night and a very small form completed and off he goes.
Six locks down and we are pleased with progress! Then the VNF chap asks where we are heading. Chatillon we reply. He shakes his head - no you are not, the next two locks have been closed! Crap! His English was very good but all we got was that the lock was closed. We would have to stop in Montbouy (montbwie as you pronounce it).
We start really well again on the canals. This canal does not have the zapper but we have a VNF person at each lock (if it is manual) or they are automatic and you gain entry from cameras watching your approach. When inside there is a pole which you lift up. This activates the lock. Not sure why people said you had to climb the ladders! If you are on your own, tie up next to the pole (there is normally a slider pole or a ladder which is just as good). The only grim bit is the activation pole - which is covered in slime!
Six locks down and we are pleased with progress! Then the VNF chap asks where we are heading. Chatillion we reply. He shakes his head - no you are not, the next two locks have been closed! Crap! His English was very good but all we got was that the lock was closed. We would have to stop in Montbouy (montbwie as you pronounce it).
We go past a long line of boats (some we have seen before), onto an empty jetty, I notice a small note on a board and realise that this is the hotel barge slot. We had a close call with barge on a horrid bend. Luckily we could reverse back into a turning basin. They were grateful to us going back as it would have been very tight to get by.
We leave Chilaxin to see if we can stay as we are as the next hotel barge is not due till tomorrow lunchtime. We head towards the mayors office, two lovely ladies say hello and then we start asking about the issue with the canal - do they know when the locks will be fixed? They look puzzled as they know nothing about any closure. A few calls later and it appears that there is not an issue with the locks, but the flow of water between two locks a bit further up. As most people, on this stretch of the canal, have hired boats and have no real experience, they close the whole lot down for safety.
We ask about the town to see if there is a bar or restaurant...Yes we have a tradition to try a beer in every town! There is but she closes at 7pm! We head back to the boat. A VNF lady is stood by all the boats - she is very young and speaks the most amazing English. She says that the next lock will be opened before 7pm, to allow those wanting to continue, but the VNF will not be responsible for any damage to boats that proceed.
Two boats head through - a Frenchman and an Australian (who lives in France and knows this area very well). Perfect - we move back into their places just in case we are told tomorrow that we still can’t move forward. It also means we are able to get Electric and water.
We head up to the bar for quick pint, and meet the owner and her large Alsatian dog. We communicate that we would like a beer. No problem. There are a couple of young lads sat to our left and one of them speaks very good English. We all start chit chatting and soon enough we are way over closing time - but having a giggle!
Time to head back and have a bit of supper.
What will tomorrow hold? Will the lock be open?
Day 22...
Over night, the water has calmed and at 9am we are given the go ahead to proceed.
We are joined by an Australian couple - Bruce and Marilyn. Lovely couple on their holidays and on the weirdest looking boat I have ever seen! They say that they will follow us and hope we will make it down to Briare for 4pm as they have to hand their boat back. That is 24 locks away, going up some steep inclines!
As we get through the first lock of the day, the young girl from last night is there and says that we should be fine if we take it steady - fat chance! Chilaxin is like a twitchy horse - she does not do slow and I have decided that she is not liking the locks and the way, in upstream locks, there is such a rush of water.
We head off and all we can hear behind us is Bruces’ voice - this guy is never quiet! He is perched on top of his boat and reminds us of Timothy West & Prunella Scales! He has one speed and one speed only - FLAT OUT! Even going into the locks! He bounces around, has no regard to fishermen (we give a wide berth as don’t want the props wrapped in line), or anyone else.
We get to Rogny just before midday. Bruce comes flying past us shouting that the lock is closed. We panic, thinking it’s another issue (we forget that France shuts down for lunch - not an issue when you have your own zapper!). We moor up and have lunch. Just as we finish clearing up, the other Australian boat goes into the lock. Lets see if we can catch them up!
This is the start of the big incline - we have 6 locks taking us up and 8 to get back down. The views are breath-taking in this area. As for the old locks well, what a master piece!
Two locks on and we catch them at the third. We manage to get all three boats in - except Bruce at the back has water coming onboard! We are all laughing! No real issues - it’s just hilarious that it has happened to Bruce. Both hire boats are low and flat so bridges are not an issue to them. For us, we are still looking at bridges, I then walk out to the bow and, if my hands touch the bridge (just), then we are okay height wise. There have been a few which are at lock entrances - and it is tight!
By the end of the day we arrive in Briare - 24 locks and god knows how many kilometres later.
Dorothy, the Capitinaire at Briare, toots in her car and tells us to follow her down to our space. She speaks perfect English and is so very helpful!
Why is it you get not a hint of wind all day yet, when you go to berth up, gusts arrive to knock you about? We end up next to a lovely English couple, Ron & Myra, who have their own boat and travel the inland waterways six months of the year - how lovely!
It is now 6.30 (and Friday night). We decide to have a shower and then eat out.
As soon as we mention this, we are told that the bars close at 7.30 (who says that the French have a night time living?!). We head out and find the bar in the square. We end up being the only two there - but it is nice and a nice view of the church too!
We then look for restaurants - not cheap! We go to one and see the first boat that we were following (The Australians) having dinner. We pop over and say hi! Nobody looks the same when they have scrubbed up!
A lovely meal later, with a nice glass of red, and we head back to the boat. It’s going to be another sticky night! Tomorrow we will not be going anywhere.
Day 23...
A good nights sleep (the locks took their toll on me I think!).
The heat was just too much yesterday - I felt like I was melting the whole time! Today is not much better but Kev sets to clean Chilaxin. She is covered in sap, flies and crud from the locks (don’t think too long about what will be in that).
We are not allowed to use hoses so he sets about with (limited water in) a bucket and a microfibre cloth.
Me on the other hand...off to do the “dobbie”. Yep, last night I tracked down the 4 laundrette. Today the bedsheets and all our clothes will be clean again! Great system that the machines self dispense detergent. The money part is in the wall (not the machines) and it accepts notes! It needs €4.50 for a small load! 3 loads later, and an attempt at the tumble dryer, I give up and turn Chilaxin into a Chinese laundry (bless her - we have so many rails and, using mega pegs, every inch of her is covered in clothing!).
Kev has now decided to go into town to get bread and milk. Two hours later (and a 2km walk in 28 degrees), he now has stretched arms from carrying beers, salad, vegetables, cans of coke, cakes and biscuits - and of course the bread and milk he set out for!
The skies are turning black and I am hoping the storm, that keeps being promised, is nearly upon us.
Tomorrow we set off again and head onto our third canal - Canal Lateral a la Loire. This one only has 35 locks in total and is 200km in length. By the time we get to the end (hopefully 3-4 days), we will be halfway through our journey in distance.
There will be one more canal after this and then we hit the rivers again - which I know Chilaxin will be looking forward to (as she will be able to go that bit quicker again and be out of this murky brown water).
Day 24...
What an amazing start to the day - heading over the Briare Aquaduct! So beautiful, old, high and long.
We headed across early to make sure we had no hold ups. Unfortunately, this meant that we left in the rain, but that was not a major issue.
We carried on to our third canal of the journey - the Canal Lateral a la loire. Very peaceful, passing lots of boat hire premisses. We saw the two boats moored up (that we had been joined by the other day) which the Australians had been on.
We carried on until midday, when the locks are closed for the VNF people to have their lunch (still not used to planning this in our day).
As we moored up, we thought we would walk up to the lock and see what was coming. Next minute, we have ANOTHER Australian chatting to us. They are in the hire boat, opposite us, and his steering has given up. They are waiting for assistance. He is going the same way as us, yet, at present, he is facing the wrong way!
We watch the next couple of boats coming towards us (more hire boats). I head out to advise them that the lock is closed for lunch, when the first one hits the bank! (This is a South African couple - first timers and been given little to no tuition. How dangerous?!). We try not to get involved but, after a few minutes, we know that they are in trouble so Kev goes over to give them a hand and to try and get them tied up until the lock opens. A very grateful holiday maker and they'd like to follow us to our days stop - so that we can share wine! (how very nice!).
Three get into the lock - Chilaxin (with her nose right against the lock, which I am very un happy about!), The South Africans, and then a German couple in their holiday boat. It’s a squeeze but everyone is helping out, including the lovely VNF guy - who carves his own sculptures and sells them at €30 - €70 each. I was very tempted but not sure where it would go at home. He can also see the panic on my face at being so close to the lock gate and promises me that he will fill the water very slowly - and he does! (amazing how our understanding of French is getting better).
It looks like we will have more storms tonight. We are in a very tiny little village - very pretty and it’s a FREE stop (including water and electric). They also have a small supermarket a few hundred meters away which will be open tomorrow. I will head off first thing, before we attempt 30nm and 13 locks.
Not sure where we will stop...but aiming for Marseilles-Let-Aubigny.
Day 25...
Beffes - we stopped just short of Marseilles-Let-Aubigny. Mainly due to some very obnoxious French on a holiday barge, whom where all very drunk and getting far too close to the back of Chilaxin! So much so that, if we reached out, we would have touched their boat! We also over heard that this was where they were heading!
In the books it said that there was a nice little holt - but no electric or water. We decided that we would have a look and, to our surprise, Beffes has had a major overhaul! Proper pontoons and water and electric for €6 per night. Bargain!
We moored up and soon the South Africans were following with the Americans close behind.
They all pulled in and we helped the South Africans come in stern too (something they had not done before).
Everyone in okay. Time to check out what Beffes has to offer!
On the main roundabout there is a bakery, a small, but very good, supermarket, a tabac and cafe and a restaurant. What more did we need?
We had a very quiet evening - cleaned down the boat for the first time in ages (no-one to tell us off about the water). God it felt great to see her looking white again - without all the tree sap, bugs and canal grime. Everywhere we have stopped, people come and admire Chilaxin. Saying that she must be very new (even though she is now 15 months).
As we head along the canals, all the cyclists ring bells and wave and, if up close to the roads, the lorries and cars all toot their horns. Nice bit of friendly fun really!
On this evening we saw a couple of gentlemen, from Israel, who were cycling through France and back home (thats one hell of a cycle ride!)! They asked if we knew where the campsite was and then they headed off. An hour later they were back and heading to the restaurant, which was a few 100 metres along the canal. They stated that they were the only ones in the campsite and that this was the best time of year to travel in France - much later and it will be chaos! (both in the canals with the holiday “bumper car” boats and also the tow paths become full of bikes).
Lucky planning for us! We also knew we wanted to complete this trip before the Summer Holidays.
Day 26...
Having had a nice quiet stay in Beffes, we headed on to Fleury (our next electric and water stop).
First we had to head through a double lock and cross a viaduct. As we approached the double locks, and just before lunch for the lock keepers, we decided to stop and give us time to work out how this lock worked. Just as well we did...it is massive!! I ended up having to use a ladder as my main stay on this lock. The SA’s had a proper bollard, which the lock keeper dropped a line down for them to attach the rope to and pull up. This would be a test for us as well as them.
As it turned out it was not too bad. 30 minutes later, we were through and heading across the aqueduct. Stunning - almost as nice as the one after Briare.
As we arrived at Fleury, we thought we had made a bit of a mistake! The snack shack, that is mentioned, was there but there were a couple of long gazebos and it all looked a little shabby.
We tucked in on the end, as we knew that the South Africans would be here (and also the German girls that were on a big barge that we had met).
We checked the electrics worked and then walked up to the shack. The owner, a funny little chap, was in his bar.
He has several beers on offer - wines too like Sancerre. Perfect. €1.50 for a large beer and we are happy!
Several beers later and the others start arriving. We manoeuvre boats so that everyone will get in and now it's time for dinner.
Another boat Pasta night ahead and cooking again for the South Africans’s - they were not too sure about the menu in the shack.
Just as I’m getting everything cooking nicely...NO GAS!! How have we gone through more gas in the past few weeks than all of last season? Well, if you're only cooking at weekends it will go further! We steal the gas from the South African's boat and use what we need quickly, before getting it back on their boat and secured again. What a nightmare!! Gives the German girls something to laugh about! They head off to the restaurant.
Another early night is wanted as the locks do take it out of you - especially when we are averaging 15-24 a day! We are doing well.
Sleep is not to come for me. The little shack is popular - not just with the few little boats but obviously the place to be! Cars keep arriving and more people. Finally at 2am they all go home and I can get some zeds.
I must say though that, as I was up and looking skyward, I have not seen stars so clear since I was in the Scilly Isles a few years ago. No light pollution whats so ever! Totally breathtaking.
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