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Writer's pictureHeidi Hasler

Amazing scenery as we continue our journey up the Seine...



Day 6...

We carry on up the Seine, with beautiful calm waters, tide against us as we are going up stream.


The properties along the river banks are stunning - plenty to look at while travelling along.


We have only seen a few large container ships so far which is breaking us in nicely. What you do need to be careful of, and to watch out for, is debris in the water! There are logs and large objects on a regular basis.


Today saw our first lock! We were happily waiting for a barge to come out and he was gesturing madly for us to move over as we had a barge coming up behind us. They have priority. We knew this and gave way. We thought that we would have to wait for the next opening, when the very nice lock master radio’d to us to get in. As we approached, the space looked very small. However we did get in with space at both ends.


I had forgotten how slimey the locks are! I had put my gloves on as I knew I would have to let ropes slide or pull hard on them - and glad I did have them as they took most of the vulgar smelly slime!



The next nervous moment was the container ship starting up with us behind it. The power from his engines and propellers is a little unnerving and I was glad to have put lots of fenders out as they were needed.


Once he was out, we got our little green light and we were off! Just a few more miles to our night stop...



More beautiful houses and views, two large piers (that used to hold a railway bridge) and we were turning right into a quiet, disused quarry that is now Port Venables. On Wednesdays, the office is closed so don’t bother trying to call for a berth - just head in and Pascale will assist you with checking in.


€18 for the night including water, electric and showers. The whole place is very quiet and a bit of a nature reserve - no noise whats so ever!


There are a couple of villages near by but no local stores or bars. We will have to wait til tomorrow, at Port Ilon, for any extras that we need - as well as topping up with fuel (just to make sure!).


Tonight Kev has cooked dinner - pork steaks, new potatoes, egg fried rice and salad. All good after a long day! At least on the waterways it is easy to make cups of tea and lunch on route - something that has been difficult at sea over the past few days.


I think I will sleep well tonight! So peaceful just watching the wildlife in these beautiful surroundings.


Day 7...

Yet another beautiful day!


The scenery is stunning and life seems so good...until we get a vibration in what seems to be the port engine. Not what we need so early into our trip!


We stop and drift in the river and lift the port prop to see if anything is wrapped around - nothing! We re-start the engine. The river is empty and flat so we decide to give her a quick blast for a few minutes see if that makes a difference. Feels extremely naughty but seems to do the trick! We also notice that the part of the river that we are in has a strong under current. This is something we will monitor for the coming few hours.


Two locks today - one at the beginning, not too bad. On our own, a bit daunting (in a funny way!) as the wash of the water coming in is at such a rate, no other boats to knock it back before it gets to you...me hanging on tight and trying to hold the boat, Kev using the bow thrusters to keep her bow in and stop the back end from hitting the lock! Lines are now green and stinking!



As soon as we leave the lock the engine/vibration stops. This confirms to us that it is the current and Chilaxin has a smooth ride for the rest of the day.


Lock 2 (mericourt), just before our evening stop, is evil! The sides are concertinaed and mean that, although I have 7 fenders on the side, some are missing the lock wall and going in the gap. As if it’s not hard enough holding the boat, the cleats on chilling, although look extremely smart and never had an issue before, in locks, due to the movement, the width is not enough so I have to use my foot to keep the line in place while continually moving fenders as best I can! To say I was glad to get out of that one was an understatement!


Literally straight from the lock we turned left towards the weir and Port Ilon is on the right.


A very beautiful setting again. Masses of wildlife and fantastic services with really friendly port managers. Ann and Bruno were very welcoming. We asked about the shop and was told that it is 3km away! BUT...they have bikes that we can use should we wish! We decide that this will be a bit of fun! ha!


I’ve not been on a bike for a couple of years and neither has Kev. These were two beaten up mountain bikes. Mine had a slightly flat front tyre and Kevs a buckled back wheel, but they were good enough to go up the road.


Port Ilon is in part of a national park and everywhere you turn it is beautiful. I stopped to take a photo of poppies in a field just before the village...



Guernes is a lovely, very pretty, village with a small school, church and cemetery. The shop has a good stock of supplies, but, as the nearest shop is 10 miles+ away, it has very high prices. Mind you everything in France seems to be a high price - including fuel at around £1.60 a litre.



We head back with our bag of goodies (and €34 less in our pockets for bread, milk, some meat and cheese!). We settle down with a beer and a family of Canadian Geese come over to have a nose - followed by a beautiful swan who was a little too friendly!



Next, we see another Sealine coming across the water We passed them earlier in the day, when they were moored at Vernon (another stunning town!). They aim at the pontoon that we are on, which is also the fuel quay. We help them moor up alongside ours and we meet Pete and Carol - another pair of Brits! They are from MDL Chatham, so we have lots to talk about. Discussing the places that they have stayed at in the past 3 weeks (they are going at a slower pace than us and only as far as Paris. Le Havre and Honflour).


Peter and Carol have lots of sailing experience and only had their Sealine for 3 years - which they love. I have a nose around their boat and they have a good look around a moor modern (Hanse) version. We all agree that we have wonderful boats and are very lucky to be enjoying such wonderful scenery and experiences.


A bottle of gin later and it’s time to have supper and then get ready for an early night (Kev cooks up a mean beef pasta!).


Tomorrow, Peter and Carol have said that they will come with us to the next stop at Cergy (which is a sister port to Port Ilon).


Only one lock tomorrow (which us ladies are pleased about!). We also get our first visitor on the trip - Katy, my step daughter. She will be flying in from Exeter to Paris and then train and taxi to Cergy. We will then all travel into Paris for the weekend and celebrate her birthday together.



Day 8...

We wake up to an eerie mist drifting over the water...the wildlife is waking up and it will be another hot day. After fuelling again (150 L), we head off alone (as the other Sealine are making the most of the washing machine before heading out!).


We get back onto the Seine and I start to make breakfast - French bread always dries out quickly so French Toast it is! Absolutely the perfect way to start the day!



Quick tidy up and then I’m told that there are PIRATES!! On the plotter we have the Black Pearl coming straight towards us - I did look out for Jack but, with the new tinted windows, it was hard to see him - but he did wave!

We have an uneventful day and a few locks, which we navigate with ease, and head on towards Cergy.


We head off the Seine and up the Oise River towards the Port of Cergy. We see the pretty tower, before the entrance to the harbour. We swing into the entrance (as we have a large barge on our backside) and start to sweat as the marina is very full and looks like it is going to be very tight!


We hear a whistle and the Capitinaire is on the bridge pointing beyond him. We do as we are told, slowly, and with me running around the deck from side to side to make sure we do not hit any other boats as it is REALLY close! We get put alongside another boat which has not moved in long-time.



We get settled in and look around at an amazing marina, surrounded by restaurants and bars. This will make a nice change from the past few days. Within minutes, Kev’s daughter, Katy arrives. She has flown in from Exeter to Paris - with a two hour transfer by train and taxi to Cergy.


Once all settled in, a quick beer, and we head out to the other Sealine, which has now arrived and moored up outside (as they where just too big to get in). It starts to rain! No problem though - the temperature drop is a bit of a relief to be honest.


While chilling and reflecting on the day, the heavens open big time! We decide to head out for dinner and get as far as the English Bar (not our first choice - but we decide to have drinks first and will then move on). However, the heavens have now decided they are going to completely dump down on Port Cergy! We are not going anywhere for a moment so we decide to have food here (although not a fantastic menu, it will do as it’s getting late and we are very tired).


30 minutes later the largest burgers arrive. I have a Croque Madame. We all struggle to finish the meals! Payment is painful at €40 a head for a burger and two drinks...Ouch!



We head back to the boats in torrential rain, thunder and lightning and to our beds - drifting off into a peaceful sleep, knowing that tomorrow we get to PARIS!


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