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Writer's pictureHeidi Hasler

Moving on from Paris...

Updated: Jul 17, 2018

Day 12...

Well today was a bit of a lazy day on the water.


We decided to go to Draveil, which is about two and a half hours up river from Paris.


The Port de Palaiscance is in-between two towns - Draveil and Vigneux. This stop over has a water park, pony trekking, lovely wooded area and a massive park with tennis courts and football pitches. This is open to the public as well (but with secure moorings).


As with every place we have stayed before, there are lots of house boats - some in great condition and others you wonder how they stay afloat! When you realise that someone is living on it, it becomes quite a shock!

Draveil has plenty of shops and restaurants close by. We make use of both! There is a supermarket and a really nice Artisan bakers (which we have to go into).



In the evening, we went with our new friends to Gibraltar Restaurant. Plenty of places to sit out under a canopy or right by the river. As it has just started to rain again, we go for the canopy area rather than inside as it is still very warm.


We are served by a very friendly team of waiters and the food is excellent! They have an A la carte menu and, also, a more basic menu. We opt for the latter as it is still a very good menu. It also has a very good wine list and we go for a bottle of white and red.



The heavens open and the thunder storm roles in...It’s almost too loud to hear the person opposite! Some diners start to move tables as water is starting to come in as the storm is really coming down now.


We continue with our lovely meal and, when we are all happy and content, the bill is brought to us (€70 a couple). We then head back, a 5 minute walk, to our boats.


Day 13...

Today I have been fighting against really bad wifi/3g to try and get all my notes, photos and videos uploaded - not a chance! France seems to have the worst possible wifi on the planet! For friends in Devon and Cornwall, believe me ours is so much better! Due to EU regulations, even though I have unlimited data, I can only use 10GB a month over here. I can use that in a few days so we are constantly swapping devices and hoping that everything goes up into the cloud etc!


This evening we have been invited onto a houseboat. We met a lovely lady who welcomed us onto her barge for drinks and nibbles. She was so pleased to show us around her new boat that she had upgraded to this year. So beautiful - lovely kitchen, large lounge diner, two very roomy bedrooms and two bathrooms (with the added space up top to sit out and have proper garden furniture to relax in!). Ann has been living on a boat for many years and moves around when she feels like it. She is a real inspiration and great fun! I was amazed at how large the boat was (bigger than my two up two down back home!).



After drinks and nibbles, we invite Ann, Pete and Carol back to our boat for dinner - Captains Pasta is on the menu with lots of garlic bread and more wine!


We carry on chatting and laughing for a few more hours, whilst the next storm rolls in.


Tomorrow we will be moving on. Pete and Carol have said they would like to come on with us, before heading back, so we will have an early start to get to Avon Bleiu.


Day 14...

Another heavy storm last night, but at least it is cool and fresh this morning! For a while anyway...


We set off at 9am, as we have 85km to clear and 4 locks.



At the first lock, there is a bit of a queue with commercial barges - a couple of monsters! We know that we will not fit in the first one and, looking around, may not make the second round either.


We speak to the lock keeper, who speaks pretty good English, and he explains that the other lock is not working properly but will test it and see if our two boats can go through.


Having waited an hour and a half, we finally move again and another barge comes in with us.


This soon becomes a convoy to the next lock and we are through that one quite quickly.


We continue to follow the barges at 7kts and fit snuggly in behind them for the remainder of the locks.


At the last lock we start looking at three options for our over night stay. The first two are full of houseboats, and not enough room for the two Sealines, so we head to Port Fountainbleau - our last resort! It is also a yacht club so we are not sure what we will find.


As we get close, we look at various gaps and work out who will fit best. Whilst discussing what we will do, a very nice chap shouts across that there is a visitors mooring at the far end - Perfect! We head down and then get told that we have to moor next to the pylons, as the recent winter storms have made everything a little loose and unstable...very comforting! When both boats are tied down, Carol and I head to the Capitainaire office to pay.



Two nights for €25 and there is a castle nearby that is a must see!


We are not in a rush. Why not? Did I mention there is a free washing machine and tumble dryer available? Carol and I rush back to the boats to sort the washing quickly! The facilities are very good - plenty of hot water and showers that have constant water running (not a push tap). Lovely!


The three gentlemen, that helped on arrival (and we gave them all a beer for their help), tell us what is around nearby - restaurants, Aldi, two towns, the buses etc. All, part in French and, the other part, a type of English! We work it out and all is good!


First night we end up in a Buffalo Grill (not great on trip advisor but not sure why as it was a great meal! €45 per couple for a massive meal and beer!).



Bed time. Everyone is shattered.


Day 15...

Brixham seems such a long time ago and some days are merging into others!


Carol, Pete and I all head out to find the Aldi store to do a bit of a shop. Tonight, we will eat on their boat.


We find the store - just 5 minutes from the mooring! They are nothing like the stores in England and have totally different products! 15 minutes later, I’m done. Beer, cheese, bread and kitchen roll - sorted!


Once back, we put everything away and decide to walk to the castle. Only a mile or so, Kev reckons! 3 miles later and two small towns, we find the castle surrounded in the streets - restaurants, food markets and clothes stores!



We notice that there is a modern art show going on in the grounds. We walk in to pay and then find that everything is free! After two hours of walking around and looking at lots of portraits, of Napoleon and his family, we head back for coffee and pastries.


We go to the Imperial Cafe, opposite the entrance - great service and a nice large coffee...trying to put off the long walk back! Although, actually, it never feels as bad on the way back.


Time for a quick chill then dinner with the neighbours.


Beautiful prawns and pineapple for starters, then pork steaks with new potatoes and salad, washed down with lots of beer, wine and chocolate! All while being taught how to play a new card game (I didn’t come last - bonus!).


Time for bed. Another town tomorrow.


Day 16...

We leave a very lovely Port de Plasaince at 10.30am. It's a very short run and a lock to get to Saint Mammes.



Being Saturday, there are a lot of rowers out on the river. They just go where they like and cause utter chaos!


We get to the first lock, hook onto the ladder, all is going okay, except...the cleats on the Sealine are very square. You have to put your foot over the top to stop the line slipping as the boat moves with the rush of water being let in. Next thing, the line is round my foot and I’m holding the boat with my leg! Quick adjustment and all back to normal.


We head out of the lock. Just around the bend should be fuel! We see the pontoon and white building (although it’s not totally obvious), moor up then find that there is no-one here. It is closed til midday. We think that the workers may be on their lunch so will just wait. 5 minutes later two guys appear in their little Clio. Fuel is soon flowing into the tanks.


This time we are paying €1.64 a litre...Ouch! €375 later and we go across the river for our nights mooring. Due to the major storms earlier this year, half of the moorings no longer have cleats, so it’s going to be tight.


Saint Mammes is much more of a smaller town than I expected it to be - very quaint though and the end of our journey on the Seine. From here we will start our voyage on the canals.


We walk a couple of miles to see where the first lock is and to make sure that we will fit...it is going to be very narrow! But at least we know what we will need to do and how we will work the locks.



We head back to the boat and meet the other two boats that we are moored up with (all British - a Sealine and a Linssen). Beer time (rude not to!) in a small bar, run by James (a lovely funny French guy).


After Kev and Pete get a quick haircut with Stephane, we then go on to the cake shop for afternoon tea, before a snooze and then back "out on the tiles" (as it is Saturday night!).



Forgot to say - the town quay has electric and water and a really nice posh office! However, nobody is here to take money or link up the water and electric!


We will see what tomorrow brings as we may move off the river, closer to the entrance of the lock, as it is away from the large barges and also very pretty!


Day 17...

Last night, all three boats headed to the same restaurant (French cuisine). €55 per couple for a 3 course meal with wine. Excellent service - from the single waitress and one poor chef who had a full house to plate up for!


At 11pm we are ready for our beds.


Although we are on the river, the large barges do not move about from 8pm till 6am, so, at night, you do get a pleasant sleep.


Saint Mammes has three restaurants, a butchers, a bakery and pharmacy. Many places closed after the flooding at the beginning of the year.


This morning (Sunday) I have been woken by the sound of the market stalls being set up at 7am. Not that I am worried - I have been awake at 4am most mornings for some reason!



The market is right at the quay entrance so not far to get any supplies today!


It looks like they have a fishmonger, a butcher, veg stall, jams and honey - so will head out and have a proper look very soon!


On the other bank of the river are the fishermen, all quietly sitting and waiting. I look off the back of our boat, while writing this, and have lots of fish jumping frolicking behind me!


The sun is shining again but storms are due over the next day or so. This means that we may have to stay here a little longer before heading on to Briare, which is the next big town on the journey. We will be there in about ten days, all being well.


The market was lovely and great for getting some really fresh produce. Everyone was friendly on the stall.


We have moved around the corner onto the Du Loing Canal and the Moret Sur Loing pontoons, which is just before the lock to the main canal. This is a beautiful spot and no large barges to bounce us around on the rivers.



The other British boats have all come around as well so, later on, we will be have a picnic in the park (which is next to the moorings).



We are expecting rain later - which, I hope, will allow the air to clear as it is really muggy at present.


Day 18...

What a lovely town this is!



It is a medieval town, just so beautiful - full of character, lots of quaint little shops and antique stores. There is a museum and a pretty church that you can go in and have a look around too.


For bigger shops, there is an Intermarche - an easy walk from the mooring.


The pontoons are managed really well for both St Mammes and More Sur Loing. The managers come around in the afternoons and take all your boat details and insurance details. For a mooring with Electric and water, it costs €8 per night. No showers or washing machines though but everything else is great.


We may have to stay another night tomorrow as the weather is due to come in again, although we were expecting a storm this afternoon but nothing has happened yet.


There are ducks and swans that have realised I am a complete softy! They keep popping around for bread. Mrs Duck has 6 ducklings - they are just so sweet. Mrs Swan has 2 signets of which both are totally different colours. Mr Swan gets very feisty and does try to attack your toes!


Day 19...

So the promised storm did not happen but, at 4am, we got really heavy rain with a threat of thunder. We decided to stay put for another day as I will have to be climbing ladders and activating the locks (according to everyone that we have spoken to on other boats) so the thought of slipping is not a good one.


We are now at 4pm and no bloody storm! Second day wasted.


Tomorrow, we will have to go on no matter what the weather says.


We have walked all over this town now - today we have walked to the hardware store and have finally got a lump hammer incase we need to use the metal steaks that we brought with us, whilst heading down the canal. I have also got a pair of gloves so that I can activate the locks - without getting my hands all slimy and risk catching a stomach bug (although it’s never happened before).


Lets hope for better weather and a good run over the next few days!


You can also check out our vlog post for this part of the journey here:



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