France - St Leger- sur-Dheune: Day 31...
We set off from Blanzy early as we had a mile or so to go before hitting the first lock of the day.
Once on the run, we had 7 locks to go up hill, then we would be heading down hill all the way for the rest of the trip - 19 further locks (26 in total). Luckily the downhill ones are a bit quicker and, on this section of the Canal Du Centre, there were a few grouped together so really good - just knackering!
I had called ahead to the marina (which is also a LocaBoat marina. We normally avoid these but thought, being a Monday, would be okay as those that were on hire would be out). This plan worked out and we arrived at 5pm! Instead of going where we had been told, we blagged a spot on the very front (as we agreed that we would be heading off early). €15 for nice showers, electric and water - a bit pricier than we have paid in a while but still cheap non the less.
Yet another Brit on a Linssen to have a chat to and they had come up from the direction that we are headed - so time to ask a few questions...like how low is the next bridge? (as it is marked VERY LOW and had us worried that we may need to remove the radar and steamer light, which would take up a few hours!) Luckily, Ray’s boat is the same height and, as long as the water level did not rise over night, we would get through as we had already been through a bridge lower in the day (not marked on any bloody chart and straight out of a lock! We had 2cm above the mast light and my god was it close and scary to watch!)
I headed to the local supermarket for more milk and bread and came back with an even cheaper Sparkling Wine (€1.40 and this one was even better! Should have bought more, but just couldn’t carry it!), water, biscuits and the milk I had set out for. Shopping done. Time to start dinner and set the plan for the next day.
France - Fragnes Day: 32...
So the morning of the low bridge had arrived! We checked the water level and it was the same as the night before (phew!). Good start. We did all the usual engine checks, cleared the water filters, oil etc and off we go.
Heading very slowly towards the bridge, me stood at the front as the height measure (with my arm stretched up I’m the same height as the stack). Getting closer, going as slow as possible, we inch under. It’s the same as the previous low bridge - just 3cm’s to spare!
Off we go - no stopping us now!
We have 15 locks and 12 miles today. We will be in nice and early to Franges, a recommended stop with restaurant, bakers and the best bit...washing machines!
We go through some very stunning scenery and more vineyards - at one point you can moor your boat outside a wine cellar merchant (dangerous if you ask me! ha!).
We also come across some idiot holiday boaters. We watch one South African hit the boat into the bank, one guy falls off and then they head to the lock which we are in. We are now wondering how we will get around them as they have just blocked the canal. It is just after 1pm and, no doubt, they have all been drinking.
They are followed very closely by a German boat, going at speed, with a loud speaker and keg of beer on the roof. So glad we met at the exit of a lock and not in the middle of the narrow section we had just been through.
As we came through Chagny, an upgraded Port de Plaisance, we originally thought we would stop there but now we are on a mission to get this canal done. It is quite shallow in places, scruffy and unloved most of the way - only a couple of places worth stopping.
Tomorrow will be our last day on the canals as we join the Saône River and our journey south to Lyon begins.
We will have our largest lock yet - 11 metres drop. This will then take us into the river and Chilaxin will be able to stretch her legs for the first time in three weeks (rather than being in tick over all the time). However the down side, the fuel bill is going to go north again!
Tonight we are going to have dinner in the Franges restaurant. A table for two, over looking our boat.
The Capitinaire is closed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday - a chap will still come out and take your payment, however, no washing machines! This boat is going to start to smell if I can’t get to a machine soon (hand washing is okay for shirts etc, but bedding is beyond me in a small sink!).
Tomorrow, a short journey to make sure that we get a slot in the main marina, and then we are going to take a couple of days out to chill, relax and mend (Kev’s knee is still an issue and also a couple of his ribs - best not to fall in a lock people!).
France - Saône: Day 33...
We set off at 9am, after a fabulous evening in Fleur Del Sur restaurant - great service and fabulous food. The best view was our boat next to the restaurant. It is amazing, when we are not on the boat, how many people have a good peer inside (glad we are very tidy!).
An easy sail to the amazing final lock of the canals. This is a 11m deep lock with a guillotine door. We moored up before, as a boat was coming in the other direction. Luckily it was a hotel boat so we had time to check everything out.
We walked over, looking in at the empty lock - daunting! Kev does not like heights and the lovely little VNF lock keeper could see this and started to make fun of him (in a nice way).
We watched the hotel boat inch it’s way in (not much space when he was in that was for sure!) and then up it came.
We headed back to Chilaxin and now had other holiday boats coming in as well. The VNF lock keeper was excellent. She made sure that everyone had two lines attached, the right amount of tension and reassured everyone the water lowers slowly. As soon as we start heading down, she starts waving goodbye. Wish she had been at every lock as she was lovely!
Five minutes later, we are in the main River Saône and, wow, it feels wide.
Ten minutes later, we are in Chalon Sur Saône Port De Plaisance. We are going to stay here a week as Kev and I both need a break. We check in, all is good - except the washing machines are out of order! My next boat will have it’s own washing machine!
After a week of relaxing (and a bit of tourist exploration!), we head back to Chalon de Plaisance and Chilaxin. They had been very good and looked after her. The temperature, whilst we were away, was on average 35 degrees celsius each day and, unfortunately, at Chalon there are a lot of trees so we now have baked on tree sap! They assured us that this will come off easily.
On our last evening, we head into town and the restaurant quarter, have a couple of drinks and an Indian, before heading back for an early night.
Our next part of our adventure is the Saône, Rhône and the Petit Rhône, then into the Med. We estimate that this will take another 2 weeks, making the whole journey, from Brixham to Mallorca, approx 7-8 weeks.
France - Macon: Day 43...
Filling the fuel tanks, completing the daily checks on the boat, we wave goodbye to Chalon. We head down the Saône with bright skies and high heat, taking it steady (as she has not been used for a week and not done any high speeds for a month).
We get through the first lock of the day and all is good until the props play up. Not sure if we have picked up fishing line or clipped a branch that we have not spotted etc. We take it steady into Macon, our next marina.
I check in and explain that we have a judder on the port side. They have a Volvo Penta dealer onsite so should be able to get her lifted, as we can’t see anything obvious lifting the engines.
We are told that she can be lifted tomorrow. We ask if it is possible to get her serviced as well whilst she is out - not a problem! Perfect!
She is lifted the next morning and the props are looking very dog eared - apparently in the hot weather, the river is much lower and there are areas, not marked on the charts, that can cause this to happen.
Over the next few days, several more boats come in with the same issue (not sure if it is a ploy for the local dealer to get plenty of work! ha!). New props are ordered and she is serviced. Soon we will be on our way again.
During our final days in Macon, we witnessed the French win the World Cup, went to a local Jazz Festival, went out to dinner with new friends - it's been lovely but, with Chilaxin all serviced and ready to go, it is now time to crack on with the trip!
France Lyon: Day 62...
This morning, we set off as early as possible to be able to get a space at Lyon.
We have called ahead - but not convinced they understood me.
More locks and waiting at each one, anything up to an hour and a half, becomes a bit tedious.
There are lots of large commercial barges and river hotel boats, which all take priority. The only issue is you can wait for them to arrive for 30 minutes before the lock drops and then wait for another to come up.
We miss plenty of debris in the river and the scenery is changing to a more mountainous region.
On the hillsides are masses of grape vines until you hit the edge of Lyon, when the commercial area rises up in a very modern, almost ugly, way (after all the beautiful scenery that we have seen previously).
We call Lyon Marina again and are told that there is someone waiting to help us in, as the wind is very strong. The Mistral kicks up in the afternoon full swing. Ten minutes later, we are battling to get in to the main entrance and then, before the bridge (which we are too large to get under), turn and fit into a tight slot. After a bit of fighting, re-manouvering, we are finally in - and very relieved as the wind is getting stronger.
The marina only holds about 30 boats, yet, is in a massive water confluence, right in the heart of the city. Booking is necessary - and only boats up to 15m are accepted.
We decide to check out our direct surroundings, then head to the old town, a short walk away.
Right opposite is a new shopping centre with a great food centre on the roof terrace. Also a couple of supermarkets, which are handy for supplies.
We then decide to walk to the old town, which is about 20 minutes away, but, in this heat (34 degs), is a tad warm.
The old town is lovely and full of pretty streets and wonderful architecture.
I’m keen to try some local Lyonaisse food tonight as this is supposed to be one of the best cities for food.
It’s a Monday and lots of shops, restaurants and bars are closed. We hear some good music and head to the bar. It turns out to be an English Bar (not what I like, but okay one drink).
Inside is a very pleasant young lady who we try our best pigeon French out on. She smiles and replies with an English accent. Rosie is originally from Plymouth but grew up in Cambridge. She is in France completing a French degree, heading home at the end of the summer.
We chit chat for a while and then a couple of Americans walk in - not your typical tourists for Lyon. Head to toe tattoos (I’m always intrigued by other peoples Tattoos). We start talking to them and find out that Phil is working in France - he is one of Justin Timberlake's roadies. His partner, Berkley, is over for a few days as she has never been to Europe.
Unlike us, they are doing the right thing, spending a few days chilling in Lyon, going to vineyards and partaking in wine tasting. Also going to Michelin starred restaurants - generally taking in the best of this region.
After a few more beers we realise that it’s getting late and my chance of a local meal has gone out of the window.
Tomorrow, we head to Avignon and will be trying to catch up with Sealine “Ella”. We have realised, this next part of the journey, we are doing identical stops and, when we are doing some of the long journeys in the open sea, feel it will be more fun as a pair.
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